You open the freezer, grab a handful of ice, and half the cubes are hollow shells. Or worse, the ice maker is completely frozen into a solid block. That’s not a mystery – it’s a symptom. And if you live in Denton, Little Elm, Frisco, or Lewisville, it’s a common one we see. Here’s a simple troubleshooting guide you can follow in about ten minutes, what it means, and when you need to call a tech.

Quick Diagnostic Flowchart

Use this to narrow down your problem fast:

Symptom: Hollow or half-filled cubes → Check water line for kinks → Check fill tube for ice → Check water inlet valve → Check freezer temp

Symptom: Solid block of ice around the ice maker → Check defrost heater → Check defrost thermostat → Check control board → Check door seal

If you’re not sure which symptom you’ve got, start with the simple checks below.

The Simple Checks You Can Do Right Now

Before you start pulling the fridge apart, let’s knock out the easy stuff. Most ice maker problems come down to three things: water supply, temperature, or a stuck part. You don’t need tools for these first few.

1. Check the water line for kinks or ice blockages

Pull the fridge out from the wall and look at the copper or plastic line running from the wall to the back of the unit. If it’s kinked, bent tight, or pinched behind the fridge, the water flow gets restricted. That trickle means the ice mold doesn’t fill completely, so you get half-cubes or hollow ice. Also feel the line – if it’s cold to the touch near the fridge connection, you might have a freeze-up inside the line itself.

What this tells you: A kinked line is a simple fix – straighten it out and push the fridge back carefully. A frozen line usually means the fridge is too cold, or the water line is routed too close to a cold duct. If the line thaws out after you unplug the fridge for an hour and the problem comes back, that’s a clue the fridge’s defrost system has an issue.

2. Check the ice maker’s fill tube for ice buildup

Open the freezer door and look at the back wall where the ice maker sits. There’s a small plastic tube that fills the ice mold with water. If you see a chunk of ice blocking that tube, or an icicle hanging off it, that’s your problem. The water can’t get into the mold properly, so the cubes come out hollow or the maker just stops cycling.

What this tells you: Ice buildup at the fill tube is almost always a sign the freezer’s defrost heater isn’t working right, or the door seal is letting warm air in. That warm air hits the cold tube and freezes on contact. If you clear the ice and it comes back in a week, you’re looking at a bad defrost heater, a stuck defrost thermostat, or a failed control board.

3. Check the ice maker arm or switch position

If your ice maker has a metal arm that moves up and down, make sure it’s not stuck in the “off” position. Some models use a paddle or a light sensor instead. Give the arm a gentle push down – if it feels stiff or doesn’t spring back, the mechanism could be jammed. If the arm is down and the maker still won’t cycle, the motor inside the ice maker might be dead. If it isn’t making any ice at all, run through these 10-minute ice maker checks first.

What this tells you: A stuck arm is often just a piece of ice jamming it. Thaw it out with a hair dryer on low (keep it moving, don’t melt the plastic). If the arm moves freely and the maker still won’t drop cubes, you’re probably dealing with a bad ice maker module. That’s the whole assembly that sits in the freezer, and it’s a common failure on Whirlpool, Maytag, and KitchenAid fridges.

4. Check the water inlet valve for slow fill

This one takes a bit more work. Unplug the fridge, pull it out, and find the water inlet valve – it’s usually at the bottom back, where the water line connects. You’ll see two wires and a solenoid. If the valve is buzzing but no water comes out, or it trickles instead of spraying, the valve is clogged or the solenoid is weak. You can test it with a multimeter (look for 120 volts at the solenoid when the ice maker calls for water), but if you don’t have one, just look for debris in the screen inside the valve.

What this tells you: A bad water inlet valve won’t fill the mold completely, so you get hollow cubes. This is a common issue on older fridges and on brands like LG and Samsung that use a lot of plastic parts in the valve assembly. Replacing it is doable for a handy homeowner, but if you get it wrong, you can flood your kitchen. The cost of a water damage claim is a lot higher than a service call.

5. Check the freezer temperature with a thermometer

Don’t trust the digital display on the front. Put a standalone thermometer in the freezer for an hour. It should read between 0 and 5 degrees Fahrenheit. If it’s colder than 0, the ice maker can freeze up solid. If it’s warmer than 10, the ice won’t freeze all the way through, and you get slushy or hollow cubes.

What this tells you: Freezer temperature problems usually trace back to a bad thermistor (the temperature sensor), a stuck damper, or a failing compressor. If the freezer is too cold and the fridge section is warm, you might have a defrost issue or a bad evaporator fan motor (see freezer cold, fridge warm). None of these are quick fixes – they require diagnostic tools and a good understanding of the refrigeration cycle.

Cost Table for Top Three Part Failures

Here’s what you’re looking at for the most common parts that go bad, with brand-specific notes from my repair log:

Part	Average Part Cost	Labor (if we do it)	Brand Notes
Water Inlet Valve	$40–$80	$100–$150	LG and Samsung valves fail more often due to plastic housing warping. Whirlpool valves are more reliable but can clog from hard water.
Defrost Heater Assembly	$50–$120	$120–$180	Common on GE and Frigidaire models. The heater element burns out near the ends. Maytag units sometimes have a bad thermostat in the same assembly.
Ice Maker Module (complete)	$80–$200	$100–$160	Whirlpool, KitchenAid, and Maytag modules fail at the motor or gear train. Sub-Zero modules cost more but last longer.

Prices are estimates for North Texas service calls as of 2025. Actual cost depends on your specific model and accessibility. For a broader look at prices, see how much appliance repair costs in Denton.

Rather have a tech look at it? S&W handles ice maker repair across Denton and North Texas, weekday evenings 3–8 PM and Saturdays 10 AM–2 PM. The $99 service fee goes toward the repair, and every repair comes with a 30-day parts and labor warranty. Book a service visit or call 940-286-4094.

When to Stop DIY and Call a Tech

Here’s the honest truth. If you’ve done the checks above and the problem is still there – especially if you see ice buildup on the back wall of the freezer, or the ice maker is frozen into a solid block – you’re past the point of safe DIY. The most common causes at this stage are a failed defrost heater, a stuck defrost thermostat, a bad control board, or a sealed system leak.

The cost-of-mistake reason: If you start poking around the sealed refrigeration system or the control board without the right tools, you can easily turn a $250 repair into a $1,500 replacement. A single wrong connection on the main board can fry the compressor relay. I’ve seen it happen.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why are my ice cubes cloudy? Cloudy ice is usually from impurities in your water – minerals, sediment, or dissolved air. If the cubes are cloudy but solid, it’s not a mechanical problem. Try replacing your water filter or using a water softener. If the cubes are cloudy and hollow, that points back to a water supply issue like a slow-fill valve or kinked line.

Should I replace the whole ice maker? Not unless you’ve confirmed the module itself is dead. I see a lot of people throw $200 at a new ice maker assembly when the real problem was a $15 defrost thermostat or a clogged water valve. Replace the whole ice maker only if you’ve tested the water supply and defrost system and they’re both working fine. If you’re unsure, call a tech – it’s cheaper than guessing wrong.

S&W Service and Repair handles this kind of work every day across North Texas. We work on Whirlpool, Maytag, GE, LG, Samsung, KitchenAid, Frigidaire, Bosch, Kenmore, Sub-Zero, Wolf, and Viking. We also process Old Republic Home Protection warranty work orders, so if you’ve got ORHP, we can take that paperwork off your hands. If you’re in Denton, Little Elm, Oak Point, Frisco, Lewisville, Highland Village, Flower Mound, The Colony, Krum, Crossroads, or Plano, we come to you.

For more on what we fix, check out our refrigerator repair page and our general troubleshooting page – same diagnostic approach applies to all appliances. If you’re not sure whether your problem is something you can handle, give us a call or contact us and describe what you’re seeing. We’ll tell you straight up if it’s a quick fix or a truck roll.

Call us at 940-286-4094, or book online to schedule a service visit. We’ll get your ice maker making solid cubes again. The $99 service fee goes toward the repair, and every ice maker repair comes with a 30-day parts and labor warranty.

You walk into the kitchen and find a puddle of water spreading out from under the dishwasher. It’s not a flood, but it’s enough to make you grab a towel and start wondering if you need to call someone. Before you do anything else, take a breath. A lot of dishwasher leaks are caused by two common problems: a bad door seal or a stuck float switch. Both are things you can check yourself in about ten minutes, no tools required. Here’s what to look for and what it means.

1. Check the Door Seal (Gasket)

Open the dishwasher door and look at the rubber gasket that runs around the inside edge. Run your finger along it. If it’s cracked, torn, or feels hard and brittle, that’s your problem. Also look for any food debris or grease buildup stuck in the folds of the seal. That gasket is what keeps water inside the tub during a wash cycle. If it’s compromised, water will seep out the bottom of the door and onto the floor.

What this tells you: The door seal is a simple rubber part that gets worn out over time. It’s not a complicated fix, but it’s also not something you want to ignore. A bad seal will let water escape every time you run the dishwasher, and that water can damage your flooring or the cabinet base. If the seal is just dirty, wipe it clean with a damp cloth. If it’s torn or hard, you’ll need to replace it. That’s a job most homeowners can do themselves, but if the seal is glued in or the door hinge is out of alignment, you’re better off calling a tech.

Cost comparison:

Issue	DIY Part Price	Professional Repair Cost
Door seal replacement	$15–$30	$100–$180

2. Check the Float Switch

Open the dishwasher door and look at the bottom of the tub. There should be a small plastic dome or cylinder that sticks up about an inch. That’s the float switch. Gently press down on it with your finger. It should move down easily and spring back up when you let go. If it’s stuck down, or if it doesn’t move at all, that’s your leak source.

What this tells you: The float switch is a safety device that tells the dishwasher when the tub is full of water. When it’s working correctly, the float rises as water fills the tub, and when it reaches a certain height, it shuts off the water supply. If the float is stuck in the down position, the dishwasher will keep filling, and water will overflow the tub and spill out onto the floor. Sometimes the float just gets jammed by a piece of food or a broken bit of plastic. If you can free it with your fingers, you’re good. If it’s stuck because the switch mechanism is broken, you’ll need to replace the float assembly.

Cost comparison:

Issue	DIY Part Price	Professional Repair Cost
Float switch replacement	$10–$25	$80–$150

3. Check the Drain Pump and Hose

If the door seal and float switch look fine, the next thing to check is the drain pump. You don’t need to pull the dishwasher out for this. Just open the door and look at the bottom of the tub. If there’s standing water in the bottom after a cycle, the drain pump isn’t working. That leftover water can leak out when you open the door or when the dishwasher is tilted.

What this tells you: The drain pump pushes water out of the tub and into your sink drain or garbage disposal. If it’s clogged with food scraps or a broken glass shard, it won’t drain. That water has to go somewhere, and it often ends up on the floor. You can try cleaning the drain pump by removing the filter and reaching in with a pair of long tweezers. But if the pump is burned out or the impeller is broken, you’ll need a replacement. That’s not a DIY job for most people. If the water is mostly sitting in the tub rather than on the floor, see dishwasher not draining for the full set of drain checks.

Cost comparison:

Issue	DIY Part Price	Professional Repair Cost
Drain pump replacement	$40–$80	$150–$300

Rather have a tech look at it? S&W handles dishwasher repair across Denton and North Texas, weekday evenings 3–8 PM and Saturdays 10 AM–2 PM. The $99 service fee goes toward the repair, and every repair comes with a 30-day parts and labor warranty. Book a service visit or call 940-286-4094.

4. Check the Water Inlet Valve

This one is a little harder to get to, but you can check it without pulling the machine out. Look under the sink and find the water supply line that connects to the dishwasher. Turn the valve off, then unscrew the line and check the screen inside the inlet valve. If it’s clogged with sediment, the valve won’t close properly, and water will trickle into the tub even when the dishwasher is off. That slow drip can build up and leak out the bottom.

What this tells you: The water inlet valve is an electrically operated valve that opens and closes to let water into the dishwasher. If the screen is clogged, the valve can’t seal completely, and you get a constant drip. Cleaning the screen is easy, but if the valve itself is leaking, it needs to be replaced. That’s a job that requires disconnecting the dishwasher and working with water and electrical connections.

Cost comparison:

Issue	DIY Part Price	Professional Repair Cost
Water inlet valve replacement	$25–$50	$120–$220

Local tip for North Texas: If you’re in Denton, Little Elm, Frisco, or Lewisville, you’ve probably got hard water. That sediment buildup on the inlet valve screen is common around here. Check it every six months and clean it with a toothbrush to keep the valve working right and avoid a slow leak.

Watch: Samsung Dishwasher Air Break Replacement

A quick look from the S&W Service and Repair YouTube channel.

5. Check Under the Kickplate

Remove the lower kickplate panel (usually held on by a couple of screws). Shine a flashlight underneath the dishwasher. Look for standing water, rust, or mineral deposits. If you see water pooled under the tub, the leak is likely coming from the pump, a hose, or the tub itself. That’s a sign you need a professional. On older GE units, water coming from the tub itself can mean the tub has failed — here’s what a GE dishwasher total tub failure looks like.

FAQ

Why does my dishwasher only leak on the heavy cycle? The heavy cycle runs longer and hotter, which puts more pressure on the door seal. If the seal is weak or has a small crack, the extra heat and water volume can push water through. Also, the float switch might be sticking slightly and only overflow during the longer fill cycle. Check both.

Can a leak damage my floor even if I clean it up right away? Yes. Water can wick under laminate or hardwood and cause swelling, mold, or rot in the subfloor. Even a small leak repeated over time can do real damage. Don’t ignore it.

Is it safe to run the dishwasher if it’s leaking? No. Turn it off and don’t use it until you find the source. Running it with a leak can cause electrical shorts, flood your kitchen, or damage the dishwasher’s control board.

What if I can’t find the leak after checking everything? That’s when you call a pro. It could be a cracked tub, a broken internal hose, or a control board issue. Those aren’t DIY fixes. For typical prices on those bigger repairs, see our appliance repair cost guide.

Printable Leak Checklist

Here’s a simple checklist you can print and stick on your fridge or keep in your toolbox:

Dishwasher Leak Quick-Check

• [ ] Door seal: cracked, torn, or dirty?
• [ ] Float switch: stuck down or not moving?
• [ ] Drain pump: standing water after cycle?
• [ ] Inlet valve screen: clogged with sediment?
• [ ] Underneath: any visible puddles or wet spots?

If you check all five and still have a leak, call a tech.

When to Stop and Call a Tech

If you’ve checked the door seal, float switch, drain pump, and water inlet valve and you still have a leak, you’re past the point of DIY. The problem could be a cracked tub, a broken hose inside the machine, or a control board issue that’s causing the dishwasher to run at the wrong times. These are not things you can fix with a screwdriver and a YouTube video.

Here’s the honest truth: messing around inside a dishwasher when you don’t know what you’re doing can cost you more than a service call. A misaligned hose clamp can cause a flood. A shorted wire can start a fire. And if you break the control board or the main harness, you’ll be buying a new dishwasher instead of paying for a repair. That’s why people in Denton, Little Elm, Frisco, and Lewisville call S&W Service and Repair when they’ve got a leak they can’t figure out. We’ve seen it all, and we know exactly what to look for. S&W Service and Repair handles all four of these common problems.

If you need a quick fix for a known issue, you can always check our dishwasher repair page for more details on common problems. And if you’re not sure what’s wrong, just book a service visit.

The Bottom Line

A dishwasher leak is almost always caused by one of four things: a bad door seal, a stuck float switch, a clogged drain pump, or a leaking water inlet valve. You can check all four in about ten minutes. If you find the problem, great. If not, don’t keep poking around. Call a professional who knows what they’re doing.

Call S&W Service and Repair at 940-286-4094 or book a service visit. We cover the whole North Texas area, from Denton to Plano, weekday evenings 3–8 PM and Saturdays 10 AM–2 PM. The $99 service fee goes toward the dishwasher repair, and every repair comes with a 30-day parts and labor warranty.

Your refrigerator’s running but the milk’s warm. The dishwasher finishes a cycle and the dishes come out wetter than when they went in. The dryer takes two cycles to dry a load of towels. If you live in Denton and any of that sounds familiar, you’re not alone. This time of year—Denton’s July average humidity is 70% – that’s why dryers struggle. The good news is some of the most common problems can be checked in ten minutes without any tools. The bad news is if you ignore the simple stuff, it can turn a fifty-dollar fix into a three-hundred-dollar repair.

Here’s what we’re seeing most often in Denton, Little Elm, Frisco, and Lewisville right now, and what you can safely check before you call.

1. Refrigerator Not Cooling – Check the Condenser Coils

If your fridge is running but the temperature inside is creeping up, the first thing to look at is the condenser coils. They’re usually underneath the fridge behind a kickplate, or on the back. Pull the fridge out, unplug it, and take a look. If those coils are caked with dust, pet hair, or lint, the fridge can’t dump heat. The compressor runs longer and harder, and eventually it trips the overload protector or burns out.

Cost comparison:

Issue	DIY Part Cost	Service Call	Major Repair
Dirty coils (cleaning)	$0 (brush/vacuum)	$80–$120	N/A
Bad start relay	$15–$30	$120–$180	N/A
Failed compressor	N/A	N/A	$400–$700
Sealed system leak	N/A	N/A	$1,000+

What this tells you: Clean coils mean the fridge can breathe. Dirty coils mean the compressor is working overtime and will fail. The part involved is the condenser coil assembly and the compressor. If the coils are clean and the fridge still isn’t cold, the problem might be a bad start relay, a failed compressor, or a sealed system leak. That’s where you stop. Replacing a compressor costs $400–$700. A sealed system repair can run over a grand. Don’t mess with refrigerant lines unless you’re EPA 608 certified.

Step-by-step for cleaning condenser coils:

2. Dishwasher Leaving Dishes Wet – Check the Rinse Aid and Drain Filter

Dishes that come out wet or with a white film usually mean the rinse aid is empty or the drain filter is clogged. Open the dishwasher, pull out the bottom rack, and look at the sump area. There’s a cylindrical filter you can unscrew or lift out. Rinse it under hot water. While you’re at it, check the rinse aid reservoir and fill it if it’s low.

Cost comparison:

Issue	DIY Part Cost	Service Call	Major Repair
Clogged filter (cleaning)	$0	$80–$120	N/A
Empty rinse aid	$4–$8	N/A	N/A
Dead heating element	$30–$60	$120–$180	N/A
Failed control board	N/A	N/A	$250–$400

What this tells you: A clean filter means water can drain properly. A full rinse aid tank helps water sheet off dishes instead of beading up. If both are fine and dishes are still wet, the heating element might be dead or the vent thermostat is stuck open. The parts involved are the heating element, the thermistor, and the vent assembly. Testing those requires a multimeter. If you’re not comfortable with electrical testing, call a tech. A misdiagnosed heating element replacement is a waste of money and time.

3. Dryer Taking Too Long – Clean the Lint Trap and Check the Vent

This one’s the most common in Denton July heat because humidity makes drying harder. But first, pull the lint trap out and scrub it with a brush and soapy water. The mesh can get a film of fabric softener residue that blocks airflow. Then disconnect the dryer vent from the back of the machine and check if air is moving freely. If the vent hose is crushed or full of lint, the dryer can’t exhaust moisture.

Cost comparison:

Issue	DIY Part Cost	Service Call	Major Repair
Dirty lint trap (cleaning)	$0	$80–$120	N/A
Clogged vent (cleaning)	$10–$20 (brush kit)	$150–$250	N/A
Failed heating element	$40–$80	$120–$180	N/A
Blower wheel broken	$25–$50	$120–$180	N/A
Dryer fire from clogged vent	N/A	N/A	$500+ (plus damage)

What this tells you: Good airflow means the dryer will dry in one cycle. Poor airflow means the dryer runs longer, wears out the heating element, and can start a fire. The parts involved are the lint filter housing, the vent ductwork, and the exhaust blower wheel. If the vent is clear and the dryer still takes forever, the heating element might be failing, the thermostats could be out of spec, or the blower wheel might be broken. Don’t keep running a dryer that’s slow—it’s a fire hazard. Stop and call S&W Service and Repair to check it. A dryer fire from a clogged vent is not a repair you want to pay for.

4. Washer Not Spinning – Check the Lid or Door Switch

If your washer fills and drains but won’t spin, open and close the lid firmly. Listen for a click. If you don’t hear a click, the lid switch or door lock assembly is likely bad. On a top-loader, that switch tells the machine it’s safe to spin. On a front-loader, the door lock does the same job.

Cost comparison:

Issue	DIY Part Cost	Service Call	Major Repair
Bad lid switch	$15–$30	$120–$180	N/A
Broken clutch	$50–$100	$120–$180	$300–$500
Failed motor	N/A	N/A	$400–$600
Worn drum bearings	N/A	N/A	$500+

What this tells you: No click means the control board never gets the signal to start the spin cycle. The part is a simple switch that costs $15–$30. Replacing it is straightforward if you can access it. But if the machine is making a grinding noise when you try to spin, the problem might be a broken clutch, a worn belt, or a failed motor. Don’t run a washer that’s grinding—you can damage the transmission or the drum bearings. That’s a $500 repair minimum. If you’re not sure, it’s smarter to book online and let a tech diagnose it.

5. Oven Not Heating – Check the Bake Element

If your oven isn’t getting hot, turn it on and look at the bake element at the bottom. Does it glow red? If not, it’s likely burned out. You can see a visual break or blister on the element. That’s a common failure on Whirlpool, GE, and Frigidaire ovens.

Cost comparison:

Issue	DIY Part Cost	Service Call	Major Repair
Burned-out bake element	$40–$80	$120–$180	N/A
Bad oven thermostat	$20–$40	$120–$180	N/A
Failed control board	N/A	N/A	$250–$400

What this tells you: A visibly broken element needs replacement. That’s a $40–$80 part and a 20-minute job. But if the element looks fine and still doesn’t heat, the problem could be the oven thermostat, the control board, or a bad relay. Testing those requires a multimeter and knowledge of the wiring diagram. If you replace the element and it still doesn’t work, you’ve wasted the part money and still have a broken oven. Call a professional from S&W Service and Repair for that.

6. Ice Maker Not Making Ice – Check the Water Line and Filter

An ice maker that’s not producing ice usually means no water is reaching it. Pull the fridge out and check the water supply line. Is it kinked? Is the saddle valve open? If you have a water filter, replace it. A clogged filter reduces flow and the ice maker won’t fill.

Cost comparison:

Issue	DIY Part Cost	Service Call	Major Repair
Kinked line (fix)	$0	$80–$120	N/A
Clogged water filter	$15–$30	N/A	N/A
Bad water inlet valve	$30–$60	$120–$180	N/A
Frozen fill tube	N/A	$120–$180	N/A

What this tells you: A kinked line or closed valve is a free fix. A bad filter is a $20 fix. If water flows fine and the ice maker still doesn’t cycle, the problem could be a bad ice maker module, a failed water inlet valve, or a frozen fill tube. The water inlet valve is a common failure on Samsung and LG refrigerators. If you’re not comfortable working with water lines and electrical connections, don’t risk flooding your kitchen. A water leak from a bad valve can ruin flooring and drywall.

FAQ

Can I clean my own condenser coils? Yes, absolutely. Unplug the fridge, pull it out, and use a brush and vacuum to clean the coils. It’s a 10-minute job that costs nothing. Just don’t use a sharp tool that could puncture the coils.

Will a clogged vent cause a fire? Yes. Lint is highly flammable, and a clogged dryer vent traps heat. The U.S. Fire Administration says dryers cause over 2,900 home fires each year, most from lint buildup. If your dryer takes more than one cycle, check the vent immediately.

How often should I clean my dishwasher filter? Every 1–3 months, depending on how much you run it. If you see food particles on dishes or standing water in the bottom, it’s overdue. Rinse it under hot water—no soap needed.

When to Call a Tech

You can handle the checks I listed above in 10–15 minutes with no tools. If any of them fix the problem, great. If not, stop there. The cost of a mistake—like running a dryer with a clogged vent, or forcing a washer to spin with a broken clutch—is always higher than the service call. We cover Denton, Little Elm, Oak Point, Frisco, Lewisville, Highland Village, Flower Mound, The Colony, Krum, Crossroads, and Plano. We handle all the brands you probably own: Whirlpool, Maytag, GE, LG, Samsung, KitchenAid, Frigidaire, Bosch, Kenmore, Sub-Zero, Wolf, and Viking. We also take Old Republic Home Protection warranty work orders. If you need washer repair or any other appliance fixed, we’re the ones who show up on time and tell you what’s actually wrong.

Call 940-286-4094 or contact us to schedule. Or book online on our booking page. We’ll get your appliances running right.

You set the oven to 350°F, come back fifteen minutes later, and the thermometer you keep on the rack says 290°F. Or maybe it shoots past 400°F and keeps climbing. Either way, your roast is in trouble, and you’re wondering if you need to call someone or if this is something you can fix yourself.

An oven that won’t hold the right temperature is one of the most common calls we get in Denton, Little Elm, Frisco, and Lewisville. The cause is usually one of two things: the bake element or the oven temperature sensor. Both are replaceable parts, but you need to figure out which one is bad before you start swapping things out. Here’s what you can check safely in about ten minutes, and when you should stop and let a pro handle it.

1. Look at the Bake Element While the Oven Is On

Turn the oven on to 350°F and let it run for five minutes. Open the door and look at the metal heating element at the bottom of the oven cavity. It should be glowing a steady, even orange-red. If you see any dark spots, blisters, or sections that aren’t glowing at all, the bake element is failing. A bad element can’t produce enough heat to reach the set temperature, and it will often cause uneven heating or a temperature that’s consistently low.

What this tells you: A bake element that doesn’t glow evenly is physically damaged. It’s a simple part, usually held in by two screws and a couple of wire connectors. If you’re handy, you can replace it yourself. But here’s the catch: if the element is shorted to the oven chassis, it can blow the main control board when you turn the power back on. That repair jumps from a $40 part to a $400 board. If you see any visible damage, unplug the oven and call S&W Service and Repair before you start pulling wires. If you have a gas oven, there’s no bake element to glow, so see our gas oven igniter replacement guide instead.

2. Check the Oven Temperature Sensor for Visible Damage

The oven temperature sensor is a thin metal probe that sticks into the back wall of the oven cavity. It looks like a small tube with a wire coming off it. With the oven off and cool, open the door and look at that probe. Is it bent? Is the wire insulation cracked or melted? Is the probe touching the oven wall? Any of those can cause the sensor to send the wrong resistance reading to the control board, which then tells the oven to run too hot or too cold.

What this tells you: The sensor is a thermistor—it changes resistance with temperature. If it’s damaged or out of position, the board gets bad data. A bent probe that’s touching the metal wall will read the wall temperature instead of the air temperature inside the oven. That’s a simple fix: just bend it back so it’s centered in the oven cavity. But if the wire is damaged, you need a new sensor. This is another part you can buy online and swap yourself, but be careful: overtightening the mounting screw can crush the probe and ruin the new part. A common one we see: homeowners overtighten it and end up with the same problem they started with.

3. Run a Self-Test If Your Oven Has One

Many modern ovens from brands like Whirlpool, GE, Samsung, and LG have a diagnostic mode. You can usually enter it by pressing a specific sequence of buttons—often “Bake” and “Broil” held together for three seconds, or “Cancel” and “Start” together. Check your owner’s manual or look up the model number online. Once you’re in diagnostic mode, the oven will run a sensor test and display a code. A code like “F3” or “S” usually points to a bad sensor. A code like “F5” or “E1” often points to a bad bake element or a stuck relay on the control board.

What this tells you: The oven is literally telling you what’s wrong. If you get a sensor code, you can replace the sensor. If you get a relay code, that’s a control board problem—and that’s where you should stop. Replacing a control board is not a DIY job unless you have experience with live electronics and wiring diagrams. One wrong connection and you can fry the new board or start an electrical fire. If the code showed up after a self-clean cycle, see when self-cleaning mode kills the control board.

4. Check the Oven Door Seal and Hinge

This one is quick and costs nothing. Close the oven door and look all the way around the seal. Is there any gap? Can you see light coming through? A worn-out gasket or a bent hinge lets heat escape, which forces the oven to run longer to try to hold temperature. The result is a temperature that either never reaches the set point or swings wildly as the oven cycles on and off trying to compensate.

What this tells you: A bad door seal is a cheap fix. You can buy a new gasket online for $15 to $30 and install it yourself. But if the hinges are bent or the door is misaligned, that’s a more involved repair. You can try tightening the hinge screws, but if the frame is bent, you’re looking at a door replacement. Don’t force the door shut—that can crack the inner glass, and then you’re buying a whole new door assembly. If the door won’t close all the way, see our oven door guide. And if you have a wall oven that runs cold, see Wall Oven Running Cold? The W10550508 Blower Problem.

Watch: GE Oven Temp Sensor: How It Should Be Installed

A quick look from the S&W Service and Repair YouTube channel.

Not sure whether it’s the element, the sensor, or the board? See our oven repair in Denton, TX page or book a service visit. The $99 service fee goes toward the repair if you go ahead with it, the work comes with a 30-day parts and labor warranty, and we’re open weekday evenings 3–8 pm and Saturdays 10 am–2 pm (closed Sunday). You can also call 940-286-4094.

When to Stop and Call a Tech

Here’s the honest truth: if you’ve checked the bake element, the sensor, and the door seal, and your oven still isn’t heating right, you’re into control board territory. Control boards are expensive—$200 to $500 depending on the brand (see our appliance repair cost guide)—and they’re easy to damage with static electricity or a misconnected wire. A common one we see: a homeowner tries to replace a board and ends up with a dead oven and a pile of parts they can’t return.

The cost of that mistake is a new oven or a $600+ repair bill. So if you’re past the simple checks, call S&W Service and Repair. We handle ovens from Whirlpool, Maytag, GE, LG, Samsung, KitchenAid, Frigidaire, Bosch, Kenmore, Sub-Zero, Wolf, and Viking. We also work with Old Republic Home Protection warranty claims, so if you have a warranty, we can handle the paperwork.

We service all of North Texas, including Denton, Little Elm, Oak Point, Frisco, Lewisville, Highland Village, Flower Mound, The Colony, Krum, Crossroads, and Plano. If you’re not sure what’s wrong, we’ll come out, diagnose it, and give you a straight answer. No upsell, no fluff.

If you want to try the DIY route, the checks above are the safe ones—but for oven temperature issues past that point, you’re better off getting a pro involved early.

Call us at 940-286-4094 or book your repair online. The $99 service fee goes toward the repair if you go ahead with it, the work comes with a 30-day parts and labor warranty, and we’re open weekday evenings 3–8 pm and Saturdays 10 am–2 pm (closed Sunday). Learn more about our oven repair service in Denton, TX. We’ll get your oven back to the right temperature.

You put a load in, the cycle finishes, and you open the lid to find standing water. The clothes are soaked, the drum is full, and the washer won’t drain. It’s frustrating, but it’s also one of the most common calls we get at S&W Service and Repair. Before you call a tech, there are a few things you can check yourself in about ten minutes. Here’s what to look for and what it actually means.

Quick Diagnostic Flowchart

Start here. Follow the questions in order:

Is the drain hose kinked or blocked? → Yes → Straighten or clear it. Run a drain cycle. Fixed? You’re done. → No → Go to next question.

Is the lint filter or coin trap clogged? → Yes → Clean it out. Run a drain cycle. Fixed? Done. → No → Go to next question.

Do you hear the drain pump running when you start a drain cycle? → No sound → Possible electrical issue or dead pump. Call a tech. → Buzzing but no water moving → Pump is likely jammed. Go to next question.

Is the pump hose blocked? → Yes → Clear the blockage. Run a drain cycle. Fixed? Done. → No → Pump is likely shot. Call a tech.

Is the lid switch or door lock working? → No → Replace switch or lock. Fixed? Done. → Yes → Problem is likely deeper. Call a tech.

1. Check the Drain Hose for a Kink or Clog

The drain hose runs from the back of your washer into a standpipe or a laundry sink. If that hose is bent, pinched, or pushed too far into the pipe, water can’t get out. Go behind the machine and take a look. Straighten any kinks. Make sure the hose isn’t shoved more than a few inches into the drain pipe. If it’s too deep, it can create a siphon lock that stops drainage.

What this tells you: If the hose is kinked, you just fixed it. If it’s clear, the problem is likely further down the line—either in the pump or the drain itself. That’s when you need to move to the next check.

2. Clean the Lint Filter or Coin Trap

Most front-load washers have a small filter near the bottom front, behind a panel. Top-loaders sometimes have one inside the agitator or near the pump. This filter catches coins, buttons, lint, and the occasional sock. When it’s full, water can’t pass through.

Open the panel, put a towel down (water will spill), and unscrew the filter. Pull out any debris. Rinse it under a faucet and screw it back in. This is a simple fix that solves a lot of no-drain problems.

What this tells you: A clogged filter means your washer is doing its job catching stuff, but you need to clean it every few months. If the filter is clean and water still won’t drain, the pump itself might be jammed or dead. For more details on common washer issues, check out our washer repair page.

3. Listen for the Drain Pump Running

Start a drain cycle and put your ear near the bottom of the machine. You should hear a humming or whirring sound. If you hear nothing, the drain pump might not be getting power, or the pump motor has failed. If you hear a buzzing sound but no water moving, the pump is likely jammed with something like a bra wire or a piece of glass.

What this tells you: No sound means an electrical issue or a bad pump. Buzzing means a physical jam. Either way, if you’ve cleared the filter and the hose is fine, a jammed pump usually requires pulling the pump off and checking the impeller. That’s not a DIY job for most people.

Rather have a tech look at it? S&W handles washer repair across Denton and North Texas, weekday evenings 3–8 PM and Saturdays 10 AM–2 PM. The $99 service fee goes toward the repair, and every repair comes with a 30-day parts and labor warranty. Book a service visit or call 940-286-4094.

4. Check the Lid Switch or Door Lock

On a top-loader, the lid switch tells the machine it’s safe to spin and drain. If that switch is broken or stuck, the machine won’t drain. Same thing on a front-loader with the door lock. You can test this by opening the lid and pressing the switch manually with a screwdriver (on some models). If the machine starts draining when you do that, the switch is bad.

What this tells you: The lid switch is a cheap part and an easy swap if you’re handy. But be careful—bypassing a switch can be dangerous if the machine starts spinning with the lid open. If you’re not sure, don’t mess with it. A bad door lock on a front-loader can also cause the machine to think the door is open, so it won’t drain.

5. Inspect the Drain Pump Hose for a Blockage

There’s a short hose that connects the bottom of the washer tub to the drain pump. That hose can get clogged with small items—safety pins, hairpins, bits of fabric. You can usually access it from the same panel where the filter is. Disconnect the hose (have a bucket ready) and look inside. Shine a flashlight in there. If you see anything, fish it out with needle-nose pliers.

What this tells you: A clogged pump hose means something small made it past the filter. Clear it out and you’re good. If the hose is clean and water still won’t move, the pump itself is likely shot. Replacing a drain pump is a job that involves removing belts, pulleys, and sometimes the entire motor. It’s not a beginner task. For more on pump repairs, visit our washer repair page.

A Common Example: Fixed in 30 Minutes

Here’s one we see a lot: the washer won’t drain even after the hose is checked and the filter is cleaned. Listen for the pump. A faint buzz usually means something is jammed in it. Pull the pump hose and you’ll often find something like a bobby pin stuck in the impeller. Clear it, run a drain cycle, and it’s done in about 30 minutes. If the water drains but the drum still won’t spin, see why your washer won’t spin.

Watch: GE Washer Not Spinning? Here’s Why

A quick look from the S&W Service and Repair YouTube channel.

When to Stop and Call a Tech

If you’ve checked the hose, cleaned the filter, listened for the pump, tested the lid switch, and looked inside the pump hose, and your washer still won’t drain, you’re past the DIY point. The next step is pulling the pump, testing it with a multimeter, or checking the control board. One wrong move—like breaking a plastic pump housing or shorting a wire—can turn a $150 repair into a $500 one. If your front-loader drains but leaves clothes soaking wet, front-load washer leaving clothes wet walks through the spin-side checks.

If the electronic control board fails, it may not send the signal to drain at the right time in the cycle. This is less common but does happen, especially on older machines.

That’s when you call S&W Service and Repair. We handle washer repair across Denton, Little Elm, Frisco, and Lewisville every day. We’ve seen every brand from Whirlpool to LG to Sub-Zero. We also work with Old Republic Home Protection warranty claims, so if you’ve got a warranty, we can take care of the paperwork.

FAQ

How much does a washer drain pump repair cost? In the Metroplex area, you’re looking at $200 to $400 for a typical drain pump replacement, including parts and labor. If it’s just a clog that needs clearing, it’s usually less. Our service fee is $99, and it goes toward the repair. Not sure the washer is worth fixing? See the 50% rule. Prices vary by brand and access, but that’s the ballpark.

Can I replace the drain pump myself? It’s possible if you’re mechanically inclined, but it’s not a simple swap on most machines. You’ll need to remove belts, pulleys, and sometimes the motor. One mistake can crack the pump housing or damage the control board. Most people save time and hassle by calling a pro.

How often should I clean the lint filter? Every three to six months, depending on how much you use the washer. If you notice slower draining or standing water, check it sooner.

What if my washer is still under warranty? If you have a home warranty through Old Republic or another provider, give us a call. We handle warranty claims and can walk you through the process.

If you want to try a few more things on your own, we’ve got a full list of washer repair services on our site that breaks down what each job involves. And if you’re ready to get it fixed, you can contact us directly or book online for an appointment.

Call us at 940-286-4094 or book a service visit. We’re open weekday evenings 3–8 PM and Saturdays 10 AM–2 PM, the $99 service fee goes toward the repair, and every repair comes with a 30-day parts and labor warranty. We’ll have that washer draining again.

You open the lid on a load of wet clothes that’s still sitting in soapy water. Or the drum spins but the machine won’t start a cycle. Or it shakes so bad you think it’s going to walk across the laundry room floor. That’s when you start wondering: is this thing done for, or is it worth fixing?

I’ve been inside more washing machines than I can count, working on them across Denton, Little Elm, Frisco, and Lewisville. Most people don’t know that a lot of common washer problems can be checked in ten minutes without any tools. And a lot of those problems are cheap to fix. Here’s what you can look at yourself, what it means, and when you should stop and call a tech.

What You Can Check in 10-15 Minutes

1. Check the lid switch or door lock. Most top-loaders have a plastic tab on the lid that pushes a switch down when you close it. If that tab is broken or the switch is stuck, the machine won’t spin or agitate. Front-loaders have a door lock that clicks shut and sends a signal to the control board. Listen for a click when you close the door. No click usually means a bad switch or a broken plastic part. That’s a $10-20 part and a ten-minute swap if you’re handy. If the machine won’t start at all, washer won’t start covers the power and switch checks.

2. Clean the drain pump filter. Front-load washers have a small door at the bottom front. Open it, pull out the drain hose, and let the water run into a shallow pan. Then unscrew the filter. You’ll probably find a handful of coins, hairpins, lint, and maybe a sock. That buildup stops the pump from draining. Clean it out, put it back, and run a rinse cycle. If the machine drains after that, you just saved yourself a service call. If the water still won’t leave the drum, see why your washer won’t drain.

3. Check the water supply hoses for kinks or clogs. Pull the machine out and look at the hot and cold hoses where they connect to the wall. A kinked hose will stop water flow. A clogged inlet screen—that little mesh filter inside the hose fitting at the back of the washer—can get plugged with sediment. Unscrew the hose, pull the screen out with needle-nose pliers, rinse it, and put it back. That fixes a slow-fill or no-fill problem more often than you’d think.

4. Balance the load manually. If your washer shakes or bangs during spin, open it up and redistribute the clothes. A single heavy item like a wet towel or a pair of jeans on one side will throw the drum out of balance. Modern machines have sensors that stop the spin cycle when they detect an imbalance. Just rearrange the load and restart. If it still shakes, you might have a broken suspension spring or a worn-out shock absorber.

5. Listen for the drain pump. When the machine gets to the drain part of the cycle, you should hear a humming or whirring sound from the bottom of the unit. If you hear a hum but no water moves, the pump might be jammed or burned out. If you hear nothing at all, the pump motor could be dead, or the control board isn’t sending power. That’s where you want to stop checking and call someone.

What Those Checks Actually Tell You

A machine that won’t fill but makes a clicking sound when you start it is usually a bad water inlet valve. That’s a $30-50 part. A machine that fills but won’t agitate or spin, and you already checked the lid switch, is often a broken drive belt or a failed motor coupling on older models. Those are still cheap fixes.

The real question is age. A washing machine that’s 10 years old or less is almost always worth repairing, especially if it’s a Whirlpool, Maytag, GE, or LG. Those brands have parts available and the repair cost is usually a fraction of a new machine. A machine that’s 14-15 years old with a failed transmission or a cracked drum? That’s borderline. A new transmission can run $400-500 with labor. A new basic washer runs $500-700. At that point, replacement makes sense.

But here’s what most people get wrong: they assume a machine that’s 8 years old is “old” and should be replaced. That’s not true. A well-maintained washer should last 10-14 years. If you’re at year 8 with a bad drain pump or a broken belt, you’re looking at a $150-200 repair. A new machine costs three times that and you have to haul the old one out, install the new one, and deal with delivery headaches. The 50% rule is a simple way to run the numbers, and top-load vs front-load washer repair costs shows what common fixes run by machine type.

Rather have a tech look at it? S&W handles washer repair across Denton and North Texas, weekday evenings 3–8 PM and Saturdays 10 AM–2 PM. The $99 service fee goes toward the repair, and every repair comes with a 30-day parts and labor warranty. Book a service visit or call 940-286-4094.

Repair vs. Replace at a Glance

Common Failure	Typical Repair Cost	When to Scrap the Unit
Broken lid switch or door lock	$10–$20 part (DIY) or $100–$150 with labor	Machine over 14 years old with multiple failed parts
Clogged drain pump filter	Free (DIY) or $100–$150 with labor	Filter is clean but pump motor is dead on a 12+ year old unit
Bad water inlet valve	$30–$50 part (DIY) or $150–$200 with labor	Machine over 12 years old with a leaky valve and rusted frame
Broken drive belt or motor coupling	$20–$50 part (DIY) or $150–$200 with labor	Machine over 14 years old and the drum bearings are also worn
Failed drain pump	$50–$80 part (DIY) or $150–$250 with labor	Pump fails again within a year on a 13+ year old machine
Control board failure	$100–$200 part (DIY) or $250–$400 with labor	Board is discontinued or machine is over 12 years old
Cracked drum or transmission	$400–$500 with labor	Any age—cost of repair is close to a new machine

When to Stop DIY and Call a Tech

If you’ve checked the lid switch, cleaned the filter, and cleared the hoses, and the machine still won’t drain, spin, or fill, stop there. The problem is likely inside the machine—a bad drain pump, a failed control board, a broken motor, or a wiring issue. Opening up the control panel or the motor housing without knowing what you’re doing can cause more damage. I’ve seen people short out a control board with a screwdriver or break a plastic harness clip that costs $100 to replace. The cost of that mistake is a bigger repair bill than if you’d called a tech in the first place.

That’s where S&W Service and Repair comes in. We handle washer repair all over North Texas, including Denton, Little Elm, Frisco, Lewisville, and the rest of the DFW area. We work on every brand you can name—Whirlpool, Maytag, GE, LG, Samsung, KitchenAid, Frigidaire, Bosch, Kenmore, Sub-Zero, Wolf, Viking. And we handle Old Republic Home Protection warranty work orders, so if you’ve got a warranty, we can work with that too.

If you need a repair, check out our washer repair page to see what we cover. Or if you’re ready to get it fixed, contact us directly and we’ll get you on the schedule.

The Bottom Line

A washing machine that’s 10 years old or less is worth fixing nine times out of ten. Spend 15 minutes checking the simple stuff yourself. If that doesn’t solve it, call a pro. Don’t throw money at a new machine when a $150 repair will get you another five years. A typical repair costs far less than the $700+ for a new machine. And unlike the big national chains, you get no call-center runaround.

Call S&W Service and Repair at 940-286-4094 or book a service visit. We’re open weekday evenings 3–8 PM and Saturdays 10 AM–2 PM, the $99 service fee goes toward the repair, and every repair comes with a 30-day parts and labor warranty.

FAQ: How Long Should a Washing Machine Last?

A well-maintained washing machine typically lasts 10 to 14 years. Top-loaders without a center agitator often last on the shorter end of that range, while front-loaders and traditional agitator top-loaders can reach 14 years with proper care. If your machine is under 10 years old and has a common failure like a broken belt or bad pump, repair is almost always the better financial move.

You open the fridge for milk. It’s lukewarm. You check the freezer – ice cream’s still hard. That’s a common call we get in Denton, Little Elm, Frisco, and Lewisville. The fridge section isn’t cooling, but the freezer works fine. Before you panic or call someone, there are a few things you can check yourself in about ten minutes. I’ll walk you through them one by one, tell you what each check means, and be straight with you about when to stop and call a pro.

What the Problem Usually Is

Most modern refrigerators use one cooling system – a compressor, condenser coils, and evaporator fan – to cool both the freezer and the fridge. Cold air from the freezer gets pushed into the fridge section by a small fan and a damper. When the fridge side goes warm, it’s almost always because that airflow is blocked, the fan isn’t running, or the defrost system failed. Here’s how to narrow it down.

Quick Troubleshooting Flowchart

Start here:

– Fan runs? → Check damper. – Damper open? → Check defrost system for frost buildup. – Damper stuck closed? → Replace damper actuator. – Fan silent or noisy? → Replace fan motor.

– Coils clean? → Possible sealed system issue – call a tech. S&W doesn’t do sealed-system (compressor or refrigerant) repairs.

• Freezer cold, fridge warm → Check evaporator fan.
• Frost on freezer back wall → Defrost system failed.
• Compressor humming but fridge warm → Check condenser coils.
• Compressor silent or clicking → Start relay or compressor failure – call a tech.

What You Can Check in 10-15 Minutes

1. Check the evaporator fan inside the freezer. Open the freezer door. You’ll usually see a small fan grille on the back wall or behind a panel. Listen for the fan running when the door is closed. If it’s silent or making a grinding noise, the fan motor is likely dead. This fan pushes cold air from the freezer into the fridge. No fan, no cooling on the fridge side. The part is called the evaporator fan motor. If it’s seized, you’ll need to replace it.

2. Look for frost buildup on the freezer back wall. Empty the freezer enough to see the back wall. If you see a thick layer of frost or ice – more than a light dusting – the defrost system has failed. The defrost heater, defrost thermostat, or defrost control board isn’t doing its job. Ice builds up, blocks the airflow, and the fridge side gets warm. You can check by opening the freezer and looking for ice around the vents. If it’s solid ice, the defrost system is the likely culprit. Don’t chip at the ice with a screwdriver or knife. One slip punctures the evaporator tubing and turns a defrost repair into a sealed-system problem.

3. Check the damper control between the freezer and fridge. Some fridges have a manual or electronic damper – a flap that opens and closes to let cold air into the fridge. You can usually find it at the top or back of the fridge section. If it’s stuck closed, no air gets through. Gently move it by hand. If it’s frozen shut or won’t budge, the damper actuator (a small motor) might be bad. On older models, it’s a simple mechanical door. On newer ones, it’s a motorized part controlled by the main board.

4. Clean the condenser coils. Pull the fridge out from the wall. The coils are either on the back or underneath behind a grille. If they’re caked with dust and pet hair, the compressor has to work harder and can overheat. That can cause the fridge to lose cooling capacity. Use a vacuum brush or a coil cleaning tool. This is basic maintenance, but dirty coils can mimic a bigger problem. If the whole fridge seems to run nonstop, our guide to a refrigerator running constantly covers the coils and condenser fan in more depth.

5. Listen for the compressor running. Put your ear to the back of the fridge. You should hear a low hum from the compressor. If it’s silent or clicking on and off rapidly, the compressor or start relay may be failing. That’s a serious issue – not a DIY fix.

6. Check the temperature setting. It sounds too simple, but a dial that got bumped is a common cause of a warm fridge. The fresh food side should be set between 35 and 38°F. If someone moved it, set it back and give it a few hours to catch up before you go further.

7. Look for a clogged defrost drain. Pull everything out of the freezer and check the floor. A puddle or a layer of ice at the bottom means the defrost drain is clogged. Water that can’t leave refreezes around the evaporator coils, and that ice eventually blocks the fan. The drain is a small hole with a tube that runs down to a pan under the fridge. A turkey baster full of hot water can clear a simple clog. If the tube is frozen solid inside the cabinet wall, that’s a job for a tech. If that water is ending up on the fridge shelves instead, see water dripping inside your fridge.

8. Check the door seals. Close the fridge door on a dollar bill. If you can pull it out with no resistance, the seal is weak. Warm air gets in, the fridge works harder, and the moisture freezes up in the freezer, which leads right back to the ice problem. A dirty gasket can be cleaned with warm soapy water. If it’s cracked or flattened, it needs replacing.

Tools You’ll Need for DIY Checks

• Flathead and Phillips screwdrivers (for removing panels)
• Multimeter (to test continuity on defrost thermostat or fan motor)
• Vacuum brush or coil cleaning tool
• Flashlight
• Needle-nose pliers (for stubborn clips)

Estimated Repair Costs by Common Cause

Problem	Parts Cost	Labor Cost	Total Estimate
Evaporator fan motor	$40–$100	$40–$100	$80–$200
Defrost heater	$30–$80	$50–$100	$80–$180
Defrost thermostat	$15–$40	$50–$100	$65–$140
Damper actuator	$25–$70	$50–$100	$75–$170
Condenser coil cleaning	$0 (DIY)	$50–$80 (pro)	$0–$80
Compressor (sealed system – not a repair S&W does)	$200–$400	$200–$400	$400–$800

Estimates are for parts and labor in the Denton/Frisco area. Actual costs vary by brand and model.

Rather have a tech look at it? S&W handles refrigerator repair across Denton and North Texas, weekday evenings 3–8 PM and Saturdays 10 AM–2 PM. The $99 service fee goes toward the repair, and every repair comes with a 30-day parts and labor warranty. Book a service visit or call 940-286-4094.

What Each Check Tells You

• Evaporator fan not running – The fridge section gets no cold air. The freezer may still get cold because the fan isn’t needed there. Replace the fan motor.
• Frost on the back wall – The defrost system failed. Ice builds up, blocks airflow, and the fridge warms up. This is the most common cause we see on brands like Whirlpool, GE, and LG. The defrost heater or thermostat needs replacing.
• Damper stuck closed – Cold air can’t reach the fridge. The freezer stays cold, but the fridge warms. Usually the damper actuator or control board.
• Dirty condenser coils – Reduced cooling efficiency. Clean them and see if it helps. If the fridge still won’t cool, the problem is elsewhere.
• Compressor not running – The whole system is dead. This is a major repair. Compressor failures are common on LG and Samsung models from certain years.

Watch: Samsung Refrigerator Fan Noise and Ice Buildup

A quick look from the S&W Service and Repair YouTube channel.

FAQ: Should I Fix or Replace My Fridge?

It depends on the age, the repair cost, and the brand. If your fridge is under 8 years old and the repair is under $300 (like a fan motor or defrost heater), fixing it makes sense. If it’s over 12 years old and needs a compressor ($500+), replacement is usually smarter. For LG or Samsung models with compressor issues, replacing the fridge is usually the better call – those repairs can be unreliable long-term. A good rule: if the repair costs more than half of a new fridge, buy new. We break that down in When Appliance Repair Isn’t Worth It — The 50% Rule.

Can I fix a warm fridge myself? Yes, if it’s the temperature setting, a clogged drain, or a dirty door gasket. Those are easy. If you see ice on the coils and the fan won’t spin, you’re looking at a defrost part that’s safer for a pro to replace.

When to Stop and Call a Tech

If you’ve checked the fan, the damper, and the defrost system, and you still can’t find the problem, stop. Do not start pulling panels off or messing with the sealed system. The sealed system contains refrigerant under pressure. If you puncture a line, you’re looking at a $400-$800 repair just for the refrigerant charge, plus the original problem. That’s the cost of a mistake – turning a simple fix into a major expense.

Also, if the freezer is cold but the fridge is warm and you hear the compressor running constantly, don’t ignore it. That can mean a failing compressor or a refrigerant leak. Both require specialized tools and training. A tech can diagnose it in 20 minutes with a multimeter and a set of gauges.

How S&W Service and Repair Handles This

We see this exact problem every week. Nine times out of ten, it’s the defrost system or the evaporator fan. We work on most brands: Whirlpool, Maytag, GE, LG, Samsung, KitchenAid, Frigidaire, Bosch, Kenmore, Sub-Zero, Wolf, Viking. We also handle Old Republic Home Protection warranty work orders, so if you have ORHP coverage, give us a call.

We service the whole North Texas area – Denton, Little Elm, Oak Point, Frisco, Lewisville, Highland Village, Flower Mound, The Colony, Krum, Crossroads, Plano. Whether you need a simple fan motor swap or a full defrost system rebuild, we’ll get your fridge cooling again. And if you need a washer repair or any other appliance fix, we do those too.

Bottom Line

If your fridge is warm but the freezer is cold, start with the checks above. If you find ice buildup or a dead fan, you can decide whether to DIY or call a pro. If the problem isn’t obvious, or if the compressor sounds wrong, don’t risk it. Call a tech.

Give us a call at 940-286-4094 or book online to schedule an appointment. Our refrigerator repair page covers what we fix, and you can also request a service visit here. The $99 service fee goes toward the repair, and every repair has a 30-day parts and labor warranty. We’ll have your fridge back to keeping your milk cold and your leftovers safe.

Quick Summary

• Most common cause: A failed magnetron or bad door switch—not a dead microwave.
• What you can check safely: Door latches, fuse, and listening for a hum.
• When to stop: If you suspect high-voltage parts (capacitor, diode, transformer)—call a pro.
• Typical repair cost range: $150–$400 depending on the part and labor.

You punch in 30 seconds, hit start, and the plate spins. The fan runs. The light comes on. But when you pull out your food, it’s cold. The microwave is working—except for the one job it’s supposed to do: heat.

I get calls about this every week in Denton, Little Elm, Frisco, and Lewisville. Nine times out of ten, the homeowner’s first thought is “I need a new microwave.” That’s not always true. Sometimes it’s a simple part swap. Sometimes it’s a dead component. But before you start shopping, there are a few things you can check yourself in about 10–15 minutes. No tools required for most of it.

What a Homeowner Can Check Safely

1. Check the door latch and the little plastic hooks. Open the door and look at the latch mechanism on the left and right sides of the microwave frame. Over-the-range microwaves have three door switches inside. Those switches tell the control board “door is closed, safe to run.” If a latch is broken, bent, or stuck, the microwave will run the fan and light but won’t fire the magnetron—the part that actually produces the microwaves that heat food. Push the door closed firmly. If you hear a click but the microwave still doesn’t heat, the switch itself might be bad. But you can at least see if a latch is physically broken. That’s a free check. (If yours does the opposite and starts running the moment you close the door, see GE microwave heating with the door closed.)

2. Listen for a hum or a buzz when you run it. Put a cup of water in there and run it for 30 seconds. Stand close and listen. Do you hear a low hum or a buzz that changes pitch? That’s the magnetron trying to fire. If you hear nothing at all—just the fan and the turntable motor—the magnetron probably isn’t getting power. If you hear a loud buzz and the microwave trips the breaker after a few seconds, that’s a shorted magnetron or a bad high-voltage capacitor. Either way, you’ve got a problem in the high-voltage circuit.

3. Check the fuse. Most over-the-range microwaves have a glass or ceramic fuse inside the unit. It’s usually located behind the vent grille on top or behind a small access panel. Unplug the microwave first. Pop the fuse out and hold it up to the light. If the metal strip inside is broken or blackened, the fuse is blown. A blown fuse often means something else failed—like a door switch that welded shut, or a magnetron that shorted. Replacing the fuse without fixing the root cause will just blow the new fuse. But finding a blown fuse tells you something is definitely wrong in the high-voltage side.

4. Test the door switch with a multimeter (if you have one). This is the most common DIY step I see. The three door switches are normally closed (NC) or normally open (NO). When the door is shut, the switches change state. If one switch is stuck open or closed, the control board won’t let the magnetron run. You can test continuity with a multimeter. But be careful—the switches are plastic and break easy. If you don’t own a multimeter or haven’t used one before, skip this step. It’s easy to short something out.

5. Look at the control board for burn marks. Unplug the microwave. Remove the vent grille on top (usually two screws). Look at the main control board. Any dark spots, burnt components, or swollen capacitors? That’s a dead board. It’s not repairable—you replace it. But if you see nothing obvious, the board is probably fine.

Common Causes and Typical Repair Costs

Here’s a quick breakdown of what usually goes wrong and what you’re looking at for a professional repair in the Dallas-Fort Worth area. These are ballpark figures—actual cost depends on your model and labor.

Common Cause	What It Does	Typical Repair Cost (Parts + Labor)
Bad door switch	Won’t let magnetron fire; microwave runs but doesn’t heat	$120 – $200
Blown fuse	Cuts all power to high-voltage circuit; microwave may seem dead or run without heat	$100 – $180
Failed magnetron	The part that produces microwaves; no heat, sometimes a loud hum	$250 – $400

Keep in mind, if the magnetron failed, it often took the fuse with it. A good tech will check the whole circuit, not just swap one part.

Rather have a tech look at it? S&W handles over-the-range microwave repair as part of our oven and range repair service across Denton and North Texas, weekday evenings 3–8 PM and Saturdays 10 AM–2 PM. The $99 service fee goes toward the repair, and every repair comes with a 30-day parts and labor warranty. Book a service visit or call 940-286-4094.

A Word on Safety

Here’s the honest truth: if you’ve done those checks and the microwave still won’t heat, you’re looking at the high-voltage circuit. That means the magnetron, the high-voltage capacitor, the high-voltage diode, or the transformer. Those components hold a lethal charge even after the microwave is unplugged. The capacitor can store 2,000 to 5,000 volts for days. One wrong move and you’re on the floor. I don’t say that to scare you—I say it because I’ve seen the aftermath.

The cost of a mistake here isn’t a broken microwave. It’s your safety. So when you’ve ruled out the simple stuff, call someone who does this for a living.

Watch: Jenn-Air Microwave Not Heating: Replacing the Magnetron

A quick look from the S&W Service and Repair YouTube channel.

When to Stop and Call a Tech

If the latches look fine, the fuse is good and it still won’t heat, the problem is in the high-voltage circuit. That’s the point to stop and call a tech.

FAQ: Common Questions from Homeowners

Q: Can a fuse just blow on its own? Not really. A fuse is a safety device—it blows because something caused a surge or short. In a microwave, that’s almost always a bad door switch, a shorted magnetron, or a failing capacitor. If you replace the fuse without fixing the root cause, the new fuse will blow the next time you run it.

Q: How long does a microwave capacitor hold charge? A long time. The high-voltage capacitor in an over-the-range microwave can hold a lethal charge for days, sometimes weeks, even after the unit is unplugged. That’s why you never poke around inside the high-voltage area unless you know how to discharge it safely. A professional tech uses a special tool to drain it.

Q: Is it worth fixing an over-the-range microwave, or should I just buy a new one? Depends on the age and the cost. If the magnetron failed and your microwave is over 8–10 years old, a new one might make more sense. But if it’s a newer model or a high-end brand like KitchenAid or Bosch, a $200–$300 repair beats a $600–$1,200 replacement. We’ll give you a straight answer on the spot. The 50% rule is a good way to run the numbers.

At S&W Service and Repair, we handle over-the-range microwave repairs on Whirlpool microwave repair, Maytag microwave repair, GE microwave repair, LG microwave repair, Samsung microwave repair, KitchenAid microwave repair, Frigidaire microwave repair, Bosch microwave repair, Kenmore microwave repair, Sub-Zero microwave repair, Wolf microwave repair, and Viking microwave repair. We also take Old Republic Home Protection warranty work orders. If you’re in Denton, Little Elm, Oak Point, Frisco, Lewisville, Highland Village, Flower Mound, The Colony, Krum, Crossroads, or Plano, we come to you. No upselling. The $99 service fee goes toward the repair. Just a tech who shows up, checks the magnetron and door switches, and tells you what’s actually wrong.

If you need a quick fix on a different appliance while we’re there, we do that too. We also handle washer repair and dryer issues, refrigerators, dishwasher drain pumps, and oven elements. It’s all the same truck.

The Bottom Line

A microwave that runs but doesn’t heat is almost always the magnetron or the door switches. The magnetron is the heart of the microwave. The door switches are the safety gate. If either one fails, the unit won’t cook. You can check the latches and the fuse yourself. After that, it’s time to bring in someone who knows how to discharge the capacitor and test the high-voltage circuit without getting hurt.

Call S&W Service and Repair at 940-286-4094 or book a service visit. Over-the-range microwaves are part of our oven and range repair service, weekday evenings 3–8 PM and Saturdays 10 AM–2 PM. The $99 service fee goes toward the repair, and every repair comes with a 30-day parts and labor warranty.

You go to slide a casserole in, and the door stops short. Or you shut it and the light stays on. Or you feel heat rolling out from the gap near the bottom. A door that won’t close fully is a problem you can’t ignore—it’s not just convenience. The oven won’t hold temperature, the bake element cycles wrong, and you’re paying for heat that’s leaking into the kitchen.

Before you call anyone, there’s a few things worth checking yourself. Most take less than 15 minutes and need no tools beyond a flashlight and maybe a screwdriver. I’ll tell you straight: some of these fixes are yours to make. Some aren’t. Here’s how to tell the difference.

1. Look at the Hinges First

Open the door fully and look at the hinge arms—the metal pieces on both sides that connect the door to the oven frame. You’re looking for three things: bent metal, missing springs, and grease that’s dried to a crust.

What this tells you: The hinges are counterbalanced by heavy springs. When a spring snaps or a hinge arm bends, the door drops on one side. That sag makes the top corner hit the frame before the door can seat. If you see a visible bend or a gap where a spring used to be, that’s your problem. And a bent hinge isn’t something you straighten with pliers—the metal is heat-treated and will snap if you force it.

2. Check the Door Gasket for Flat Spots

Run your hand along the rubber gasket that lines the oven cavity—the soft black seal the door presses against. Feel for flattened sections, cracks, or spots where the rubber has turned hard and shiny.

What this tells you: The gasket is a compression seal. When it’s new, it’s spongy and springs back. Over years of heat cycling, it loses that memory. A flat spot means the door touches the frame but doesn’t actually seal—heat escapes right past it. Sometimes a gasket is just dirty, and a wipe with a damp cloth restores the grip. But if it’s hard or cracked, replacement is the only fix. Gaskets are cheap, but they’re a pain to replace on some models because the retaining clips are buried. And if a leaky gasket has your oven cooking unevenly, see why your oven is cooking unevenly.

3. Look for a Loose or Worn Door Latch

With the door closed, press on it firmly. Does it feel solid, or does it push in and bounce back? Then open it and inspect the latch mechanism—the hook or roller that catches the frame when you shut the door.

What this tells you: The latch is what holds the door shut against the hinge springs. If the latch is loose, the door can close but not catch. If the roller or hook is worn, it slips instead of holding. On many ovens, the latch is tied to the door switch—the little button that tells the control board the door is closed. If the latch doesn’t seat properly, the switch never trips, and the oven thinks the door is open. That’s why the light stays on. Replacing a latch is doable if you’re handy, but it requires removing the door panel or the rear access plate. Get it wrong, and you can break the wiring harness. If the door only started acting up after a self-clean cycle, see self-cleaning oven mode and the control board.

4. Test the Door Switch (The Simple Way)

Open the door and find the small button or plunger that gets pressed when the door closes. It’s usually near the top right or left of the oven opening. Press it with your finger. You should hear a click. Let it go. Click again.

What this tells you: If the switch clicks, it’s probably fine. If it’s silent or feels mushy, the switch is worn. But here’s the catch—a bad switch can also cause the oven to not heat at all, not just the door issue (if heating is the bigger problem, see oven not heating to the right temperature). If your door closes fine but the light stays on, the switch is the likely culprit. Replacing a door switch is a straightforward job for a tech because it takes about 20 minutes and a specific tool to release the wire clips. A homeowner can do it too, but you have to be careful—the wires are live if the oven is plugged in, and you can short the board if you’re not methodical.

5. Listen for the Spring “Twang”

When you close the door, does it feel heavy or light? A properly balanced door has a smooth, controlled motion. If it slams shut or feels like it’s fighting you, the hinge springs are weak or broken.

What this tells you: The springs are what hold the door open at an angle and help it close gently. When they go, the door drops fast or hangs loose. That uneven pressure can warp the door panel over time, which is a much more expensive fix. If the door itself is bent—you can see a gap at the top or bottom when it’s closed—that’s not a hinge issue anymore. That’s a door replacement, and that’s not a DIY job.

When to Stop and Call a Tech

Here’s the honest line: if you’ve checked the gasket, cleaned it, and it’s still leaking air—that’s a part replacement. If you see a bent hinge or a broken spring—that’s a part replacement plus tension adjustment. And if the door itself is out of square—meaning it doesn’t sit flush even when you push it closed—you’re looking at a door assembly swap.

The cost of a mistake here isn’t just a broken part. It’s a cracked oven door glass from forcing it shut, or a stripped hinge mount that requires drilling out the frame. Both turn a $200 repair into a $500 repair. That’s why for hinge, spring, and door replacement, you call a professional. For a sense of what repairs run in Denton, see our appliance repair cost guide.

Not sure what’s going on with your oven? Our oven repair service in Denton starts with a $99 service fee that goes toward the repair if you go ahead, and the work carries a 30-day parts and labor warranty. You can book a service appointment for a weekday evening (3–8 pm) or a Saturday (10 am–2 pm).

At S&W Service and Repair, we handle oven door issues—hinges, springs, gaskets, latches, and full door replacements. We work on all the major brands, including Whirlpool, GE, LG, Samsung, and KitchenAid, and we cover the whole North Texas area from Denton and Little Elm to Frisco and Lewisville. If you’re dealing with a door that won’t seat, don’t force it. Give us a call.

The Bottom Line

A door that won’t close is almost always one of three things: a worn gasket, a broken spring, or a bad latch. You can check all three in ten minutes with a flashlight. If you find a flat gasket, order the part and swap it—that’s a fair DIY job. If you find a bent hinge or a broken spring, that’s where I’d stop. The tension on those springs is dangerous, and getting it wrong means a door that slams or won’t stay closed.

For anything beyond a gasket, call a tech. We’ll diagnose what’s wrong and explain your options. If you’re in Denton, Little Elm, Oak Point, Frisco, Lewisville, Highland Village, Flower Mound, The Colony, Krum, Crossroads, or Plano, we’re local.

If you’ve got an old warranty through Old Republic Home Protection, we handle those work orders too—just have your policy number ready.

Ready for a hand? Call us at 940-286-4094 or book a service appointment for a weekday evening (3–8 pm) or a Saturday (10 am–2 pm). The $99 service fee goes toward the repair if you go ahead, and our work carries a 30-day parts and labor warranty. Learn more about our oven repair in Denton.

It’s August in North Texas. That means your appliances are working harder than they will all year. The heat outside pushes everything inside to the limit. Here’s what we’re actually seeing in Denton, Little Elm, Frisco, and Lewisville this week — and what you can check yourself before you pick up the phone.

The most common call we get right now is a refrigerator that’s running but not keeping food cold. The second is a washer that fills with water but won’t spin. The third is a dryer that takes two cycles to get a load dry. These all share one thing: they’re usually simple to diagnose, and sometimes even simpler to fix.

Before you call S&W Service and Repair, take 15 minutes and run through this list. You might save yourself the service call fee. And if you don’t, you’ll give us better information when you do call, which means we fix it faster the first time.

1. Check the condenser coils on your refrigerator

Pull the fridge out from the wall. Unplug it first. Look at the coils — they’re either on the back panel or behind the bottom grill. If they look like a dust bunny farm, that’s your problem. Vacuum them with a brush attachment. This takes ten minutes.

What this tells you: The compressor pushes hot refrigerant through these coils to shed heat. If they’re caked with dust, the heat stays inside the loop, and the fridge can’t get cold. The compressor runs longer, works hotter, and eventually dies. Cleaning coils is the single cheapest thing you can do to extend a fridge’s life. If the coils are clean and the fridge still won’t cool, you’re looking at a bad condenser fan motor, a failing start relay, or a sealed system leak. That last one is not a DIY job.

We’ve done hundreds of refrigerator repairs in Denton this summer alone. The heat in this town is brutal on sealed systems. If your fridge is less than eight years old and the compressor is running but the freezer is thawing, it’s often a $150–$250 fix — not the $800 replacement you might be dreading. If it’s older than 12 years and the compressor is shot, that’s when we start talking about replacement. We’ll give you the straight math when we get there.

2. Listen to the dryer — is it heating at all?

Start an empty dryer on high heat. After three minutes, open the door. If the drum is warm, the heating element is working. If it’s room temperature, you’ve got an electrical issue.

What this tells you: A dryer that runs but doesn’t heat usually has a blown thermal fuse, a bad heating element, or a faulty thermostat. The thermal fuse is a one-time safety device — if it’s blown, something upstream caused it to overheat. Check the vent hose for kinks or lint buildup first. A clogged vent is the number one cause of overheating and a fire hazard. If the vent is clear and the fuse is blown, replace the fuse and the element together. They fail in pairs. If you’re not comfortable with a multimeter and basic wiring, stop here. A mistake with 240-volt current is not a learning experience — it’s an ER visit.

Dryer repair in Denton is a big chunk of our week, especially in August when the heat makes people run dryers late at night to keep the house cooler. A typical heating element swap runs $180–$300 installed. If the drum bearing is grinding and the dryer is over 10 years old, replacement is usually the better call — a new dryer runs $500–$900 and will cut your electric bill. We’ll tell you which one you’re looking at before we quote anything.

3. Check the washer’s drain hose height

If your washer stops mid-cycle with water still in the drum, look at where the drain hose goes into the standpipe. The hose should loop up to a height of 30 to 36 inches before it drops into the pipe. If it’s shoved straight down, the water siphons out on its own, confusing the pressure switch, which then thinks the machine is still full.

What this tells you: The machine’s pressure switch measures water level by air pressure in the tub. Siphoning tricks it into never seeing the right level. Fix the hose height, and you’ve solved it. If the hose is correct and the washer still won’t drain, the drain pump is likely clogged with a sock, a coin, or a hair tie. The pump is at the bottom front of the machine — you can usually access it through a small panel. Unplug the washer, tilt it back, and feel for a clog. If the pump spins freely but still doesn’t move water, it’s a bad pump motor. That’s a part swap, not a repair, and it’s worth calling us for because a miswired pump can flood your laundry room.

Here’s one we see a lot: a Samsung front-loader throws an error code every cycle, and the homeowner orders a new control board online. Often the real problem is a hair tie wrapped around the pump impeller. Clear it, run a test cycle, and you’re done, with no board needed. That’s the kind of fix we love: cheap for you.

4. Test the dishwasher door latch

Dishwasher not starting? Press the door closed firmly and watch the latch. If it doesn’t click cleanly, or if the door wobbles, you’ve got a worn latch assembly. The door switch is a small electrical interlock that tells the control board it’s safe to run. If it’s loose, the board never gets the signal.

What this tells you: The door switch is a consumable part. It gets slammed hundreds of times a year. If the latch is broken, the dishwasher won’t fill, won’t wash, won’t do anything. This is a cheap part, but it’s a fiddly replacement — the wiring is tight and the switch has to be aligned perfectly. If you force it, you can crack the door panel or strip the mounting screws, turning a $30 part into a $200 door replacement. If the latch clicks fine and the unit still won’t start, check the control board for a blinking error code. Write it down — that code tells us exactly what’s wrong before we arrive.

Dishwasher repair in Denton runs $120–$250 for a latch or door switch replacement. We did one in Highland Village last Tuesday — a Bosch that wouldn’t start. The latch was worn, but the owner had already priced a new unit at $900. We fixed it in 20 minutes. He left us a five-star review and referred his neighbor. That’s how we’ve built this business — one honest fix at a time.

5. Smell the garbage disposal

If your disposal runs but sounds like it’s grinding rocks, turn it off and look down the drain with a flashlight. You’re looking for a metal object — a fork, a bottle cap, a small lid. If you see one, unplug the disposal and use needle-nose pliers to pull it out. Never stick your hand in there, even with the power off. The blades are sharp, and the impellers can pinch.

What this tells you: A disposal that grinds but doesn’t chew is usually a jammed impeller, not a broken motor. Most units have a hex socket on the bottom for a 1/4-inch Allen wrench — you can rotate the motor manually to free the jam. If the motor hums but doesn’t turn, and the Allen wrench doesn’t free it, the motor’s thermal overload has tripped. Wait 15 minutes and try again. If it still hums and won’t spin, the motor windings are cooked. That’s a replacement unit, not a repair. Don’t try to rebuild a disposal motor — the cost in parts and time is never worth it.

When to stop and call us

Here’s the honest line. If you’ve done the checks above and the problem isn’t obvious, or if the fix requires opening the sealed refrigeration system, touching the main control board, or working with 240-volt wiring, stop. The cost of a mistake isn’t just the part — it’s the secondary damage. A misdiagnosed refrigerator compressor can cost you a full food load and a $600 compressor. A bad dryer wiring job can start a fire. A flooded washer can ruin your subfloor.

S&W Service and Repair has served North Texas since 2020. We handle all the major brands — Whirlpool, Maytag, GE, LG, Samsung, KitchenAid, Frigidaire, Bosch, Kenmore, Sub-Zero, Wolf, and Viking. We also work directly with Old Republic Home Protection warranty claims, so if you’ve got an ORHP policy, call us and we’ll handle the paperwork.

We cover the whole Denton County area and beyond — Denton, Little Elm, Oak Point, Frisco, Lewisville, Highland Village, Flower Mound, The Colony, Krum, Crossroads, and Plano. If you’re in one of those cities, you’re in our backyard. We’re not a dispatcher sending out random contractors. We’re the techs who show up.

One more thing: when a refrigerator quits on a Saturday, the fix is often a start relay or a condenser fan motor, which costs far less than the $1,200 or more a new fridge runs. That’s the difference between repair and replace, and we’ll always give you that math up front.

Repair vs. Replace: The Quick Guide

• Under 5 years old: Repair it. Always. Parts are still under warranty or cheap.
• 5–10 years old: Repair if the fix is under 50% of a new unit’s cost. That’s our rule of thumb.
• Over 10 years old: Get a quote. If the compressor, motor, or control board is dead, replacement is usually smarter. We’ll tell you honestly.

Common Repair Costs in Denton (2025):

• Refrigerator not cooling: $150–$400
• Dryer not heating: $180–$300
• Washer not draining: $120–$250
• Dishwasher not starting: $120–$250
• Garbage disposal replacement: $150–$300 (parts and labor)

FAQ

How much is a service call fee? $99, and it’s applied toward the repair if you go ahead. That’s our standard across Denton County.

Do you work with home warranties? Yes. We take Old Republic Home Protection work orders and work with other warranty companies. We handle the paperwork.

What brands do you service? All major brands — Whirlpool, Maytag, GE, LG, Samsung, KitchenAid, Frigidaire, Bosch, Kenmore, Sub-Zero, Wolf, and Viking.

How fast can you get here? Appointments run weekday evenings 3–8 PM and Saturdays 10 AM–2 PM. Call and we’ll give you the next open slot.

Do you charge extra for Saturday appointments? No. Same rates on weekday evenings and Saturdays.

If you’ve got a fridge that’s warm, a washer that won’t spin, or a dryer that’s taking forever, give us a call. We’ll walk you through a quick phone diagnosis, and if it needs a truck roll, we’ll schedule a window that works for you. If you’d rather skip the phone, you can book online in under two minutes. And if you’re just not sure whether it’s worth fixing, check out our refrigerator repair in Denton page or our washer and dryer repair in Denton page to see what we cover — or contact us and ask. We’ll give you a straight answer.

Call S&W Service and Repair at 940-286-4094, or book online. We’ll get your appliances running right — and we’ll do it this week.